Monday, April 28, 2008

Bozoukia Night (continued from Kalo Pascha)

The day after the rainstorm consisted of a lot of sleeping.  This was mostly to prepare for the Easter celebration that night.  After sleeping most of the day and working on a limited amount of homework we headed down to the center of town to see the Easter service and the "Cristos Anesti" celebration afterwards.  We are not sure if we were too early or too late for mass but what we saw instead was hundreds of people standing around the Plateia (central square) in church attire holding candles.  About 50 or more people - ranging in age from rambunctious adolescents to solemn middle aged men - where throwing large, unpredictable fireworks into the street.  For about an hour everyone just stood around as M-80s exploded in the street (I'll try to put a video up).  Shortly after midnight larger, 4th of july-style fireworks were lit and then the crowd slowly dispersed.  On the walk back we saw people preparing for the easter feast with entire lambs hung skinned and ready to roast from their porches.

A little after 1 am we headed to the bozoukia for live music and Greek dancing - it was time to put our skills acquired from 3 short dance lessons to work.  The bozoukia was a funny little place about a 30 min walk from town.  Shaped like a large yurt the inside was surprisingly fancy with plush velvet doors, rows of tables and a dance floor/stage right in the middle.  The only affordable way to drink there was to order a bottle of whisky and share it as a group so we did just that.  Soon after the dancing began and we took turns dancing.  Depending on the songs we would dance as partners, in a large (sometimes very large) circle, or individually.  The individual dancing was reserved for the sorrowful songs and everyone would get down on their knees around the person dancing in the middle - releasing any sadness they may be holding through their feet and into the floor.  They would often be showered with flowers brought around by the waitress.

We left the bozoukia just in time to see the sun rise.  It was a calm walk back and once again most of the next day was spent sleeping.  At around 4 we made the journey to Troianata where Nikos and Cynthia (our program directors) live for Easter Dinner.  We enjoyed a ridiculously delicious meal prepared by them and all of us followed by a long walk through the olive groves and vineyard in the valley below their home.  We saw the sunset over Argostoli from the ridge at the edge of the valley and then walked back past dark trees and phosphorescent glow worms.  
This hardly does justice to an amazing weekend but I'll put up some pictures soon to supplement.  Next week we have a break from studies so a few of us will be off to Vikos Gorge for some adventuring.